At I AM BULLDOG, we get a lot of questions about our exceptional bullies so we’ve taken the liberty of answering your most common concerns. Please feel free to contact us directly to make a purchase.

When you purchase from I Am Bulldog, I am committed to you and your Bullie for life. From our first telephone conversation, you will know that I am happy to share tips on raising a healthy, low-maintenance bulldog. Simply I do what is right with these dogs and the people that purchase one. It is my goal to equip you with the knowledge and “tools” you need to enjoy your FUR BABY and to keep them safe & happy. I am committed to you and your puppy throughout its entire life. I can help you by phone, email or in person. I am in no way a vet and don’t pretend to be. So please, listen to the expert veterinarian of your choice for any medical advice.

I grew up on a farm and have always been an animal lover so the dogs keep me close to my roots. Since leaving the farm and starting my professional career, dogs were the easiest 4-legged critters to have around. I had raised and shown working Australian Shepherds for many years then I ran across the bulldog and fell in love. The dogs are my “escape” if you will. When I have a bad day, I come home to my dogs and they make everything better. It’s great therapy!


Bulldogs are different from every other breed in that they are almost human like. I’ve always said, “until you have a bulldog, you just cannot understand the difference between them and the rest of the dogs.” I had to have one … then another. Now, I must confess, I am a bulldog addict, hooked on bulldogs for life.


The Bulldog is the breed of dog for me.  They are everything that I could ask for in a family companion.  My style of bulldog has  an athletic muscular build, plenty of stamina to run & play for long periods of time, they make excellent family dogs, and they train very easily. I strive to produce a delightful bullie with much to give back to their owners.

In my profession (my “day job”) things MUST be done right. There may not be a second chance to do things and lives could be lost.


Thus there are always two things that are on my mind:
1) Quality
2) Customer Satisfaction


As a result I can confidently say over the years I AM BULLDOG continues to get better and better. Nothing thrills me more than to see this happening before my very eyes. I enjoy the great feeling of placing a puppy with a new family who’s full of excitement and to hearing the happy stories of families over the years getting back to me with the joys of owning an IAB bulldog. Stories that literally come from all over the world!


It’s what I do and I love every minute of it!

I sure do! I can provide you with dozens of references including my vet.  My previous customers are my best form of advertisement! I am proud of the long list of satisfied (& repeat) buyers that have gotten an IAB puppy over the years. Many, many wonderful stories of happy families and their IAB Bullies abound – both in the USA and abroad.

I am told over and over again that my dogs are of higher quality than the other dogs that folks have seen. I greatly appreciate the kindness and compliments of others, but it has not been an easy task. After over a decade of establishing our line and type of dogs, the rewards are obvious.


Of the most important qualities that I select for, is the health of the dog. While bulldogs are known to have horrible health issues costing high vet bills, I have chosen to go against the grain of history and breed exclusively healthy bulldogs. The duration of my experience has paid off, and I am proud to practically not even have a slight issue in any of my or my customer’s dogs.


I believe that a dog should be a blessing to your home, and not a curse. Having a dog that is overly hyper, out of control, and/or riddled with health issues that cost thousands of dollars at the vet and countless trips to and from is not a blessing! I wouldn’t want that for myself and won’t pass it off onto my customers.

Simply put (and I know you’ve heard this before but it is true): You get what you pay for. Even with these wonderful dogs selling in the thousands of dollars, the AKC says that a true reputable breeder will do well to break even – and we ARE a reputable breeder.


Aside from dog breeding being hard work, it also costs a good deal of money to do it the right way. To ensure success with my program, I have and will continue to spend whatever it takes to provide my dogs with an excellent living environment, plenty of exercise, the best food, proper immunizations and a whole lot of love. I spare no expense in raising a litter of puppies.


Unfortunately, even many pet shops buy their dogs from puppy mills where the dogs are repeatedly bred, poorly socialized and rarely – if at all – see the outside of a cage. I have made a personal choice to never sell my puppies to pet shops for this reason. Our goal is to place all of our pups with kind pet lovers who will provide them with a wonderful home and life.


Quality is not expensive, it’s priceless. Since I have been breeding these dogs longer than most within the breed, I know how to separate myself from the average breeders that are in it to make a quick buck. I have built my program the slow and solid way.


It costs more to do it the right way. So if you are bargain shopping, I’d advise going elsewhere. I often tell my friends that I’d rather own one $5000 dog than five $1000 dogs. Why? Because a quality dog gives you opportunity to create more, with wise breeding decisions. I wouldn’t and couldn’t settle for anything else. Could you?



The registration papers will be mailed to you separately after you receive your puppy. The registration papers are a pre-printed puppy certificate from the kennel club registry and their official registered name will have the prefix of “IAB.” You are welcomed to name your puppy and have him/her registered under your ownership immediately, upon adoption. We prefer to sell our puppies as “pet only” with the understanding that the pup will be spayed/neutered before adulthood.

Here’s is a quick (possibly not complete) list of items that you need to consider:


Medium sized (open-air / steel) crate. Food and Water Bowls. Comfortable dog house for outside shelter IF your dog will be outside for long periods of time. PUPPY FOOD that contains NO CORN, NO WHEAT, NO SOY. We prefer and feed I AMS Large Breed Puppy Food.Flea & Tick prevention SAFE for Puppies. Frontline Plus – dosed by the weight of your dog. Tennis balls, and other SAFE puppy toys. Baby Wipes. LOTS of newspaper or puppy pads to line the crate.

I DO NOT sell to anyone that I have not interviewed. So after you have a few early questions answered via email, pick up the phone and call me to discuss. Many people will sell you a dog without even wanting to speak to you, however I am not one of those. I am deeply concerned about where my pups go. I need to know how they will be treated; what kind of future home they will have, etc. So, if you are not interested in speaking with me personally, I am sorry, you wont be able to get one of my puppies. As far as transport options, I will either fly or ground ship your puppy, whichever method is the safest and best for your puppy at that time. I use TLC FLIGHT NANNY to fly and and my exceptional ground shipper is BaileysBestCare.Com.

Everyone chooses a puppy with different criteria: color, gender, preferred size, or “it’s just the way he looks at me.” Some folks contact me early, even before their puppy is born, because they know exactly what they want. They are willing to put a deposit down in advance so that they can be first in line for their specific description. Others wait until the litter is born to contact and still others wait until the puppies are displayed online to choose. I do not pressure either way. I do have certain policies in place to make things fair for everyone.


PICKING ORDER IS DETERMINED BY THE ORDER IN WHICH SECURITY DEPOSITS ARE RECEIVED. I honor your place in picking order by the date your security deposit is in my hand. I expect follow-up communication from my clients throughout the entire adoption process, especially when dealing with finances.


One policy that I exercise, and my clients ALL seem to like it: IF A DEPOSIT IS PLACED IN ADVANCE AND THERE IS NOT A PUPPY IN THAT LITTER THAT YOU PREFER, the deposit will simply roll over to the next available litter and you move up in the picking order.


This system has worked all these years without any complaints from my adoptive families and several return clients!

This is a personal preference. The advantages seem to far outweigh the disadvantages. Feel free to discuss this in private with your vet and/or myself and I will help you all that I can in this decision.

Ask around in your local area for opinions and references on the vet that you are considering. DO NOT be afraid to change vets if you are not happy with their service. Always follow your heart.


Some Questions To Ask:
What are your hours/days of business?

What are your after-hours / emergency care procedures / policies?

Am I allowed to call the doctor at home after business hours if I have a true emergency or must I travel to my nearest ER vet?

Do you offer injectible bordatella (kennel cough) vaccines rather than the nasally-administered vaccine? (Much better to stay with injectible-only vaccines for bulldogs and other short-muzzled breeds.)

What is your standard office visit fee? How much will it be when I bring my new puppy in for its second set of shots and a stool check?

How much is the Rabies vaccine if my dog is there for a routine visit? Do you offer Rabies vaccine CLINICS each year? If so, how much would the Rabies vaccine be at the clinic?

How old must my puppy be, or how much must my puppy weigh before it’s old enough to be spayed / neutered?

What are the price ranges for that surgery? (Our dogs range from 55 – 85 lbs as adults.)

If my puppy has a belly-button (umbilical hernia – happens from time to time), how much extra do you charge to correct that during spay/neuter surgery?

May I drop off my dog early in the morning and pick him up after work? Is there an extra charge for my dog to stay with you during the appointment day?

What is your procedure if an animal believed to be infected with Parvo or Distemper happens to walk into your office? (This is a real danger to young puppies! Please carry your puppy into the vet’s office and do NOT let your puppy touch the floor or the ground of suspicious environments… your puppy will not be protected against fatal diseases until he has received at least 3 rounds of puppy shots. Even then, please use caution before exposing your new puppy to high-animal-traffic areas. Distemper/Parvo is extremely easy to pass from animal-to-animal AND from PEOPLE-to-animal just from simple contact with an infected animal.)

Lots of patience and even more coffee! HA! As exciting as it is for your family to bring this little bundle of joy home and as cute and outgoing as your puppy is, remember – it is stressful on the little guy to be ripped from their home, mother and siblings. Then thrown into an environment where everything is so different. That is why I prepare special care packages for his first week.


You can let the puppy sleep with you. Allowing a puppy to sleep with you or your kids is completely up to you, but the first few nights of your new puppy howling and yipping for long periods of time is not my idea of a great night. So those first few nights, let the little guy sleep with you. Your family will thank you in the end. This makes for EXCELLENT BONDING TIME and gives your puppy complete security in her new environment.


I suggest that you use a waterproof mattress cover (very cheap). Then top that with a cloth mattress cover or thin blanket so you’re not too warm against the waterproof material and dress the bed, as usual. Put a towel under puppy to catch any shedding during the night. If pup wakes during the night, take her out for a potty break and curl right back up in the bed with her. Lights OUT – no night light needed if he’s safe with you.


Otherwise, you are in for a long night of puppy howling and I can almost assure you that puppy will suffer from nausea, vomiting and diarrhea from getting too upset in her crate overnight. You will have plenty of time to crate-train your FUR BABY for night sleeping after they have adjusted to life in your home. Give puppy a chance to feel secure in their new home and become familiar with all sights and sounds before you close that crate door for the night.


When you DO begin overnight crate training, do so gradually to reduce puppy’s stress levels.

SIDE NOTE: Google “Crate Training Your Puppy” on how to avoid those little land mines both now and for the rest of his life.

There are several quality brands out there and I am here to advise when the time comes. High quality dog food choices are always the best. If you go with cheap dog food, it will cost you in the long run.  Blends with salmon and sweet potato work best for us here at I Am Bulldog. 

CORN is not digestible. It is a “filler” and only produces more POOP in your yard. Corn allergies are not easily detected. Why waste money on something that is not good for your pet?

WHEAT turns to YEAST on the dog’s skin. Yeast feeds the demodectic mites that can live on canines & felines. If you take wheat OUT of the diet, you decrease the chances of skin issues, such as demodex and other allergies to food fillers.

GLUTEN is a sticky protein that clogs up the digestive system and adds to potential allergies.

SOY is not the worst enemy, but it does make “eye boogers” and ear smells worse than they need to be. Soy also causes a protein build-up in the body that sometimes makes for undesirable results.


If you plan to CHANGE your dog’s food, remember to make this adjustment carefully, to reduce the risk of diarrhea (upset stomach). Mix 1/2 “old” food with 1/2 “new” food for 5 to 10 days.

While it is tempting to give your dog treats and spoil him with goodies, you are only hurting him in the long run. Extra weight on your dog’s bones will only speed up the aging process by increasing arthritis tendencies, encouraging laziness and can also be a trigger for heart disease.

There are a lot of variables to consider here. How well are your current pets socialized? How your existing pets behave with or without a new puppy is DETERMINED BY YOU.


Expose your older dogs and cats to other smaller dogs and puppies. Feel free to test your dogs with a local puppy, before purchasing, if you have concerns. If your current pets need professional obedience training, at this point, I would not advise getting a new puppy. Most older dogs are willing to accept a puppy over another adult dog and can be quite nurturing.


Cats can be a different story. I don’t have cats, so my advice is based on feedback from customers that do. If you already own a cat and you are adopting a bulldog puppy, I would say there will be no problems. There are sure to be a few hissing sessions at first introduction, however the puppy soon learns to steer clear and the cat learns to tolerate the puppy. In time they will very likely be lifelong napping buddies.

Bedding: I use a plastic base for pup’s bed. I double-case a small pillow & wrap it with a towel for the actual bedding. This is “cheap,” and towels are easy to switch out and wash as needed. Puppies and adult dogs seem to prefer “climbing up” into bed. They enjoy “nesting” – sometimes they play-dig at the bedding to carve out just the right spot for sleeping.